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PROTECTING YOUR BIGGEST INVESTMENT IN VIRUS CHALLENGING TIMES

3/23/2020

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Now that we all have watched news until we are completely scared out of our skin, we are all hoping for the best, but envisioning the worst.  Home Services such as lawn care and irrigation maintenance are essential services to keep what is most people's biggest investment, their home, in good working order. Outside services are very lucky to be able to keep social distancing and help homeowners maintain some sense of normalcy in these frightening and fearful times.  

In North Texas our winter was very dry and our spring has been very wet. Few homeowners are able to practice proper watering under these circumstances. The objective is for soil around the foundation to stay evenly moist and protect your home and plant material. As the Spring season ramps up with the first mow or scalp of yards, it is important to "test and repair" your sprinkler systems so you don't get a surprise high water bill. 

For the homeowners that practice "turning off" the controller in the fall and never using again until Spring.....Look out. So far we have repaired mostly leaks for those homeowners and a great deal of bad valves. With sprinkler systems using low voltage to power the 24 volt valves, we have a great deal of valve replacements in the Spring due to lack of use. Similar to not using your car for months at a time and then discovering a bad battery, failed alternator, rotted hoses...  not running your automatic sprinklers can reveal failed valve solenoids, pipes heaved in wet weather causing leaks or controllers/timers no longer working properly.
During the drought of 2010 to 2015 people stopped using their sprinkler systems and caused more damage in repair costs than if they would have kept them in good working order. Deferred maintenance is NOT an inexpensive option. It feels like it at the time, but in the long run you will end up with significant dollars worth of grass replacement, foundation repairs, and sprinkler component repairs. 

As we venture into uncertain times we hope that everyone stays well and will protect your biggest investment. Remember to check your sprinklers to prevent unfortunate surprises. "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure." Ben Franklin... We could all use a little more cure in these unprecedented times.


(Article by Caryn Walz LI8895|BPAT 8606 |Certified Landscape Auditor)
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High Water Bill??

10/15/2019

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Did you know the largest single use of household water is outdoor sprinklers?  Our hot summer meant more watering for our North Texas yards and that means higher water use and higher water bills. It isn’t always a leak causing that higher bill.
Did you know on average a 7-9 zone sprinkler system running 10 minutes a zone can use around 1260 to 1620 gallons of water every time your sprinklers run a full cycle?  If you run your system twice a day, two times a week, 4 weeks a month and your water use can be 20,000 to 26,000 gallons a month. 
When it gets super hot, sprinklers may run two or three more times a week – of course that increases the monthly total use. Typically, it isn’t noticed until the water bill arrives. That extra water during the heat of the summer can be 2 to 3 times as expensive as the first 20,000 gallons-- increasing our bill to the noticeable level!!
North Texas cities sell water to homeowners at a tiered pricing level. In other words, the first 5,000-7,000 gallons are relatively inexpensive. A jump of more than double the price per 1,000 gallons is in effect over the first tier level of 5,000 gallons on up to the 20,000 gallon use. Then another increase happens for the next 20,000 and again for the next 20,000 gallons. So water use itself can become expensive. (See example below)
High water bills can also be indicative of a leak. The smart water meters deployed at our homes register water use all day long and through the night. To determine if your bill is leak or use related, do some checking. Check with your water use, online or with the city, to determine time of day the meter is registering usage. If the meter registers water use all day long, you may have a leak. If the water use coincides with your sprinkler watering schedule, your sprinklers are using that water. 
You can cut back on sprinkler water use by adjusting schedules for the seasonal changes. You should always check your sprinklers for leaks (i.e. broken or missing nozzles, leaks around the spray heads, or missing heads) and proper use so you aren’t paying for water your system is leaking. 
Most cities offer a leak credit program which may reimburse you for water loss if you do discover a leak and have it repaired by a licensed irrigator or plumber.  Each city program differs slightly, but none of the cities reimburse repair expenses, only water loss/saved.

Remember November 1 begins the winter season water conservation enacted by our cities – one day a week watering and anytime during the day. Heads Up recommends an 11:00 am start time to capture the warmer part of the day. It is also important to water regularly in the Winter months to keep even moisture around the foundation of your home. 

​


Water Rates Example:

Water rates as of November 1, 2018
Meter Size Rate 3/4 inch $24.51
1 inch $24.51
1-1/2 inch $108.51
2 inch$171.25
Minimum charge based on meter size.
Gallons Rate per GallonFirst 1,000 gallons included in minimum meter charge
1,001 - 5,000 gallons $0.75 per 1,000 gallons
5,001 - 20,000 gallons $3.71 per 1,000 gallons
20,001 - 40,000 gallons $7.41 per 1,000 gallons
All over 40,000 gallons $8.98 per 1,000 gallons 
The water charge is based on actual usage. In order to encourage conservation, the per unit charge (1 unit = 1,000 gallons) increases at higher volumes of usage.

Example: WATER $253.81
John Smith has a 3/4-inch meter with 42,500 gallons of consumption for the month.
Gallons Units Rate Total 0 - 1,000= 1.00x $24.51= $24.51
1,001 - 5,000= 4.00 x $ 0.75= $ 3.00
5,001 - 20,000= 15.00 x $ 3.71= $55.65
20,001 - 40,000= 20.00 x $ 7.41= $148.20
Over 40,000= 2.50x $ 8.98= $22.45
Total Gallons: 42,500 Water Portion of Bill: $253.81

(Information provided by the Customer & Utility Services Website of The City of Plano)

​
(Article by Caryn Walz LI8895|BPAT 8606 |Certified Landscape Auditor)
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Brown spots in my Bermuda Grass?

9/27/2019

 
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There are several species of wild rabbits—most are called cottontail rabbits—who, between them, live across most of North America. Cottontails like to live at the edges of open areas. In fact, they are rarely found in dense forests or open grassland.

This love of edges means they love our suburbs. Yards, parks, playgrounds, and office parks, often with small natural buffers in between, have lots of edges between small areas of different habitats that rabbits love.We have had an enormous amount of folks talking about rabbits eating and crapping in lawns and landscapes causing "brown or dead spots" all over the yard.  Wild rabbit’s start to breed around four months of age and the can have over 50 offspring in a year.  The good news is that wild rabbits are prey animals with a life expectancy of about seven months. 

​Urine Burns Grass - Like dog urine, rabbit urine is acidic and will kill grass in spots wherever it occurs. You might be able to train your dog to use out of the way places for its elimination needs, but you can't train wild rabbits, so when they visit your garden, they urinate as well as eat grass and other plants.

Diagnosing Rabbit Damage - Rabbits are fairly large animals, so it's easy to spot them when they forage on your lawn. If you don't catch them in the act, look for their droppings near the areas of your lawn that they have damaged. Try diluting cayenne pepper with water and spraying it around the edges of your lawn areas once a week. You might need to reseed the damaged areas, but this remedy might help to deter rabbits from returning to the area.

Repellent Products and Plants Can Help - Commercial products are available at nurseries and online that claim to repel rabbits and other animals. Some mimic the scent of rabbit predators. Some people believe that sprinkling coyote urine around the periphery of your yard will repel rabbits. Rabbits find certain plants unappealing and might not venture into a lawn area that contains them around its border. Such plants include baby's breath, lavender, lily of the valley, foxglove, coral bells, ornamental sages, forget-me-not, yarrow, Oriental poppy, ornamental onions, day lilies and tulips.

We recommend a trip to your local Dollar Tree Store for a few pinwheels and rubber snakes for the flower beds. These and a regular watering regiment is the cheapest and safest method we recommend!

​(Article by Caryn Walz LI8895|BPAT 8606 |Certified Landscape Auditor)

What Are The Signs of Foundation Problems?

9/17/2018

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​If all the soil beneath a foundation swells uniformly, there usually is no problem. Issues occur, however, when only part of the home settles. Then, the differential movement causes cracks or other damages.
Problems resulting from foundation settlement:
  • Damage to the structure
    • Loss of real estate value
    • Tripping hazards
    • Unsightly cracks
    • Plumbing leaks 
    Whatever the cause, settlement can destroy the value of your home and even render it unsafe. If you see signs of foundation failure, don't delay in getting the problem solved. The longer you wait, the more your foundation will sink
  • The soil conditions in Texas respond to rain and drought like a sponge. This expansion and contraction with changes in moisture put stress on your foundation.  
  • Clay isn’t the only type of soil that negatively impacts foundations. The second biggest enemy to concrete house foundations is sand. While sand does not expand and contract like clay soils, it can be washed away, creating gaps beneath a foundation.
    Loam and rock are the best soils for providing foundation support. They compact well and don’t move or swell with moisture changes causing further costly damage.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Are you wondering if you have foundation issues? All foundations will settle with time, but problems arise when this settlement is uneven or extreme.
  • Here are the common signs of foundation problems:
    Exterior Warning Signs
    • Wall rotation
    • Separation around the garage door, windows and/or walls
    • Cracked bricks
    • Broken and/or cracked foundation
    • Displaced moldings
    Interior Warning Signs
    • Misaligned doors and windows
    • Cracked sheetrock
    • Cracks in floor
    • Uneven floors
    Bulging floors and cracked walls, and doors that won't close are all signs of foundation distress.  60% of all homes built on expansive soils suffer from foundation distress. The problems occur when only part of the foundation heaves or settles, causing cracks and other damage.
    This differential movement is largely caused by differences in soil moisture. Loss or gain of soil moisture can cause serious shrinkage or swelling.
    If the frame of a house does not begin to distort until after three or more years of satisfactory performance, it is doubtful that the distortion is caused by full-depth foundation settlement, which is always evidenced by matching cracks. Cracks occur at each side of a portion of the foundation wall that is undergoing downward movement caused by soil bearing failure.
    Settlement cracks are nearly always vertical, and they should not be confused with cracks that occur when a wall is subjected to lateral movement from soil pressure.
    FOUNDATION CRACKS - Hairline cracks are a common result of normal foundation settlement. However, you should be concerned if large cracks appear suddenly. If a crack is wider than an eighth of an inch you could have a possible foundation issue.
    “Horizontal or jagged 45-degree cracks are the most serious and usually indicate you will need professional help.”
    If unsure, monitor the cracks in your foundation, if they continue to expand, call a foundation repair company out to inspect the cracking.                                                                                                                                                                                     
The two most common methods of this type of repair are slabjacking and hydraulic jacking (also known as piering).
In a Slabjacking operation, grout is pumped beneath a slab or beam to produce a lifting force that restores the member to its original elevation.
In piering, steel posts are driven through the unstable soil and hydraulic jacks are used to raise or stabilize concrete slabs affected by changes in the underlying soil. The repair method used depends on the type of distress being treated.
Choosing the correct method for concrete foundation repair. Before deciding on a repair method, you must determine what is causing the distress. Examine moldings and trim boards, mortar joints in brick veneer, and windows in low areas for clues. Also, take note of recent weather. Unusually dry or wet weather can cause problems in the underlying soil.
The most commonly used method of correcting smaller slabs of sunken concrete, such as residential slabs, driveways, sidewalks, swimming pool decks, etc. is slabjacking.
Slabjacking is done by pumping a cement grout through small, strategically-located holes in the concrete slab. Once in place, the grout solidifies into a dense concrete mass and provides a competent bearing for the concrete slab.
If a soil-cement-lime grout is used, the lime content of the slurry will impart the benefits of lime stabilization to the base or sub-base. This combined treatment not only restores the slab to proper grade but also stabilizes the sub-soil to prevent recurrence of the problem.                                                                                                                                                                   
HOW TO HIRE A FOUNDATION REPAIR CONTRACTOR                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Foundation work is definitely not a do-it-yourself project, so it makes good sense to get at least three licensed contractors to give you a detailed proposal along with an assessment of your issues. The average inspection takes about two hours. 
  • Educate yourself on foundation repair methods and ask a lot of questions. Don't make your final decision based on advertising and cheap prices. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
  • Don't do business with a contractor that does not have their foundation repair methods evaluated by ICC-ES (International Code Council Evaluation Services). This nonprofit organization ensures that building products meet code compliance.
  • In most areas of the country, a reputable contractor will have a clause for the depth of the hydraulic piling (typically 20 to 30 feet). Beyond that depth, there is usually an additional charge, ranging from $20 to $30 per foot. If a contractor has no depth clause, be cautious. It's unlikely that the contractor would continue to operate at a loss, and would instead just stop at the depth that would guarantee a profit.
  • Some foundation repair projects require removal of landscaping in the areas of the work, and the contractor typically won't guarantee that a bush or shrub will survive after removal and replacement.
  • Warranties or guarantees for foundation repair work are very important, so pay close attention to their terms. Remember that a warranty is only as good as the company that backs it. Look for a national company that can offer a warranty trust. This means that if the company goes out of business, there is a plan in place to provide follow-up service, if needed.
  • Most likely your Irrigation System will be affected either by broken pipes, heads, and wires. Who is responsible for the repairs? (Get it in writing) What licensed company will be doing the repairs? Is the foundation company selling Irrigation services without a license? (Holding your foundation warranty hostage if you don't let them upsell you with a Foundation Drip System) ?    Texas Law:  Only  Landscape Irrigators (LI) can sell, design, consult, install, maintain, alter, repair irrigation systems.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Once you have an idea of how you are going to deal with your foundation let us help you with applying even moisture around your house. Not just at the dripline where most companies lay a ring of water around your house. The entire system needs to be evaluated for "head-to-head" coverage. Starting at the foundation and going 6' to 8' away, making sure you have uniform distribution all the way around your house. Over or under watering one side of the house can contribute to continued foundation problems in the future. Just like large shrubs and trees being too close to the house. Using a Weather Based WiFi controller to get alerts when things stop working or help you easily manage your watering schedules, is the best insurance for long term monitoring.  The new Rachio Gen 3 is a perfect all  in one Hydro Solution for Homeowners, especially if you travel.                                                                                             We are Rachio Certified Pro Installers. - Need help call us - 214.837.1553
​(Article by Caryn Walz LI8895|BPAT 8606 |Certified Landscape Auditor)
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Sprinkler Repairs for the Aging System – Practice Long-Term Care

6/28/2018

4 Comments

 
PictureTree Roots caused a large leak - Long Term Care required a Re-route of a valve, all wiring, mainline, and lateral lines with heads.

Sprinkler repairs shouldn’t be a mystery. Just like people, aging sprinkler systems have had cuts and scrapes and maybe a broken bone here or there. In a sprinkler system, aging shows up as; broken heads, leaking pipes, fatigued valves, electrical surge impaired controllers and damaged wires. Any number of incidents occurs with sprinklers and we’ve seen a great deal of them.
That doesn’t mean that repairs should be a mystery to the homeowner. Recognizing that many previous repairs have been applied to a 10-20+ year old system can help homeowners understand complications the next repair may bring. Fundamentally, sprinkler systems are a network of buried wires, pipes, valves and heads all connected to and managed by a controller (usually in the garage). Repairs will always encompass those fundamental components one way or another.
Common repairs are sometimes needed to correct failed and fatigued components. Just as age, fatigue & damages cause people to have component replacements (knee/hip/heart/etc) -- sprinklers too have component replacements (valves/pipe/fittings/heads/nozzles/controllers). Years of use cause fatigue, damages and failures- true for both people and sprinklers. Sadly, nothing lasts forever, but gratefully, most things can be repaired or replaced.
Whether dealing with doctors or irrigation professionals, many problematic symptoms are common to multiple maladies and testing enables the necessary process of elimination required before finally resolving an issue. Normal wear and tear of both our bodies and our sprinklers systems takes its toll. Maintaining ourselves and our sprinklers takes time, observation, awareness and management.
So it is with sprinklers. Symptoms present themselves – usually through too much or too little water. Dry spots, wet spots, or non-working spots within our yards are what we notice. Licensed irrigators are professional trouble shooters, who, through testing, are able to diagnose and resolve most sprinkler problems.
Other common repairs include replacement of parts from damages. We forget that roofers, landscapers, foundation workers, fence workers, cable layers, pest control professionals and all types of foot traffic have been through our yards. Those visits could have inadvertently created any number of seen or unseen damages. Workers in your yard are usually there to perform something other than sprinkler work. Sometimes in the pursuit of that task, your sprinklers get damaged, the worker may tell you, they may not, they may try to fix it, and they may not. Chances are that issue will reveal itself as a symptom further down the road – could be a failed repair, low water pressure, poor coverage, new geysers from broken heads, again, a number of symptoms could arise.
Still other common sprinkler repairs are due to changes we, as homeowners, elect to make – extended patios, new decks, resurfacing the pool decking, trellises & arbors, enlarged flower beds, removal of landscaping, installation of new landscaping, back yard renovations. Homeowners generally engage a company to undertake the delivery of our visions. We make it through the demo, the construction & mud or mess and try to focus on the end game - -how nice our revisions will inevitably be. Contractors frequently tell us during projects “don’t worry about that”. Well if the construction work involves your sprinklers, unless you have engaged a licensed irrigator, worry. Construction specialists are seldom licensed irrigation specialists too. Corrections or changes the
“don’t worry about it” contractors make are typically of the caliber that won’t be noticed until after they collect their fees and have departed for good from your project. You may notice in 2 months or next summer or next time you run your sprinklers.
Homeowners who understand that aged sprinkler systems that have suffered through multiple band-aids, reroutes, electrical surges, tree roots, new fences, reworked landscaping, cable/internet provider changes, foundation work, roofers on premises, (… the list of people and changes that have happened in a 10-20+ year old yard and sprinkler system are many) – these aware homeowners will better recognize the time and troubleshooting that must go on to correct & repair the symptom’s issues finally uncovered.
We would all like our sprinkler repairs to be quick and inexpensive. Patience is our best remedy for resolving issues and understanding that what we would all like to be simple, more frequently than not, is complicated. Most sprinkler issues can be repaired. Throwing up your hands and abandoning your existing system for a new one is rarely needed. Always use licensed irrigation professionals and ask for explanations. The explanation may take more time, but if they can’t explain what they’ve done, how can you trust the repair?   

(Article by Caryn Walz LI8895|BPAT 8606 |Certified Landscape Auditor)

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It took almost an hour to remove this damaged connection to a head out of a fitting so the Homeowner could use the system one more season. This allowed the homeowner to plan for a re-route of 2 Valves, station wires, and a re-build of lateral lines to heads next Spring.
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ARMED AND READY FOR THE GROWING SEASON

4/3/2018

1 Comment

 
​Maintenance Tips for DIY Homeowners:

Watering – During prime growing months (April-September), sod will require approximately 1 inch of water per week. This will vary depending on climate conditions. During winter months, this amount should be adequate for approximately a 2-3 week period. Don't forget to make sure that the sod is moist before a freeze during the winter months to help protect the root system.  Use cycle Soak method for watering deep. (i.e. 1am for 8-10 min. and again 4am 8 to 10min. for SPRAYS and  15 to 20 min. for ROTORS)

Mowing – Generally sod should be mowed every 7-10 days depending on sod type and time of season. Best results are noticed if you mow a little shorter in the spring (i.e. 1.5 inch height), then a little taller in the summer and fall (i.e. 2 inch height). This will help insulate the sod during the summer and fall, also promoting new growth in the spring and early summer.

Fertilization – A balanced fertilizer with a slow release form of nitrogen such as 13-13-13 stems better overall results at establishment, and then use a 3-1-2 (i.e. 21-7-14) @ 5 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. As a general rule, fertilization takes place two times a year (spring and early fall) on St. Augustine and Zoysia. On Bermuda use a 3-1-2 @ 5 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. in the spring and fall with an additional Nitrogen application of 21-0-0 @ 2 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. in early June.

These are general recommendations for our area which can be changed due to weather conditions, quality desired and landscape use. In using any products read and follow all label directions.
 
 
Please use gloves and eye protection when handling any fertilizer products. Heads Up Sprinkler Co., LLC is not affiliated in anyway to Home Depot this list was provided as a guide to help homeowners.
 
Home Depot sells these products:
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​This LESCO fertilizer weed control product controls over 100 broadleaf weeds including dandelions, buckthorn and more. It has an environmentally friendly analysis. Since it contains zero phosphorous.
  • Apply in spring and fall when broadleaf weeds are actively growing
  • High in potassium for plant durability
  • Preferred product of professional landscapers
  • Professional product for professional results
  • Excellent weed control product
  • Must be applied with a rotary spreader
  • Should be one of the components of a lawn maintenance plan

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  • This is an excellent general purpose fertilizer. The high potassium improves drought tolerance or heat and disease resistance. Includes the LESCO exclusive slow release formula which feeds lawns up to 12 weeks.
  • Package covers 15,000 sq. ft.
  • High potassium improves drought tolerance, heat and disease resistance
  • Includes iron and other micronutrients for a deep green turf
  • Exclusive slow release formula feeds lawn up ten weeks

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​Premium iron formula any time of year to any type of grass. To deliver results that truly exceed your expectations, we have enhanced this product with beneficial microbes and advanced soil technology.
  • A deep green lawn without excessive growth
  • Helps grass use nutrients found naturally in the soil
  • Contains more iron for a deeper green
  • For use on lawns, flowers, shrubs, vegetables and trees

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Get professional weed-prevention results with the LESCO 48 lb. Ready-to-Use Crabgrass Pre-Emergent. It is ideal for use on lawns in the southern United States and Texas, and it can be applied in the fall or late winter. (DO NOT USE IF OVER-SEEDING WITH RYE GRASS)
  • Prevents crabgrass and other weeds
  • Apply in september to prevent winter weeds or apply from late winter through early spring
  • Covers 12,000 sq. ft.
  • Apply with a rotary spreader (not included) while wearing protective attire
  • May stain skin and clothing
  • Must be applied with a rotary spreader
  • Professional product for professional results

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Kellogg Garden Organics1.5 cu. ft. All Natural Topper Lawn Soil for Seed and Sod  
OMRI-listed Organic Garden Soil​
  • Enriched with Starter Fertilizer
  • Helps Seeds Germinate Fast
  • Great for leveling low spots
  • Raising soil level around foundation

(Article by Caryn Walz LI8895|BPAT 8606 |Certified Landscape Auditor)
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    Authors:

    Patty Sipe  
    · TCEQ Licensed Irrigator  16768
    · Certified Landscape Irrigation Auditor – Irrigation Association  (CLIA)

    ·  Water Conservation Irrigation Educators for several North Texas Cities

    ·  Winners of Plano Environmental Star of Excellence Award for irrigation company Conservation efforts.

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Texas Licensed Irrigators   LI 0025270,  IT 5957, 
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