Did you know the largest single use of household water is outdoor sprinklers?  Our hot summer meant more watering for our North Texas yards and that means higher water use and higher water bills. It isn’t always a leak causing that higher bill.
Did you know on average a 7-9 zone sprinkler system running 10 minutes a zone can use around 1260 to 1620 gallons of water every time your sprinklers run a full cycle?  If you run your system twice a day, two times a week, 4 weeks a month and your water use can be 20,000 to 26,000 gallons a month. 
When it gets super hot, sprinklers may run two or three more times a week – of course that increases the monthly total use. Typically, it isn’t noticed until the water bill arrives. That extra water during the heat of the summer can be 2 to 3 times as expensive as the first 20,000 gallons-- increasing our bill to the noticeable level!!
North Texas cities sell water to homeowners at a tiered pricing level. In other words, the first 5,000-7,000 gallons are relatively inexpensive. A jump of more than double the price per 1,000 gallons is in effect over the first tier level of 5,000 gallons on up to the 20,000 gallon use. Then another increase happens for the next 20,000 and again for the next 20,000 gallons. So water use itself can become expensive. (See example below)
High water bills can also be indicative of a leak. The smart water meters deployed at our homes register water use all day long and through the night. To determine if your bill is leak or use related, do some checking. Check with your water use, online or with the city, to determine time of day the meter is registering usage. If the meter registers water use all day long, you may have a leak. If the water use coincides with your sprinkler watering schedule, your sprinklers are using that water. 
You can cut back on sprinkler water use by adjusting schedules for the seasonal changes. You should always check your sprinklers for leaks (i.e. broken or missing nozzles, leaks around the spray heads, or missing heads) and proper use so you aren’t paying for water your system is leaking. 
Most cities offer a leak credit program which may reimburse you for water loss if you do discover a leak and have it repaired by a licensed irrigator or plumber.  Each city program differs slightly, but none of the cities reimburse repair expenses, only water loss/saved.

Remember November 1 begins the winter season water conservation enacted by our cities – one day a week watering and anytime during the day. Heads Up recommends an 11:00 am start time to capture the warmer part of the day. It is also important to water regularly in the Winter months to keep even moisture around the foundation of your home. 
​

Water Rates Example:
Water rates as of November 1, 2018
Meter Size Rate 3/4 inch $24.51
1 inch $24.51
1-1/2 inch $108.51
2 inch$171.25
Minimum charge based on meter size.
Gallons Rate per GallonFirst 1,000 gallons included in minimum meter charge
1,001 - 5,000 gallons $0.75 per 1,000 gallons
5,001 - 20,000 gallons $3.71 per 1,000 gallons
20,001 - 40,000 gallons $7.41 per 1,000 gallons
All over 40,000 gallons $8.98 per 1,000 gallons 
The water charge is based on actual usage. In order to encourage conservation, the per unit charge (1 unit = 1,000 gallons) increases at higher volumes of usage.

Example: WATER $253.81
John Smith has a 3/4-inch meter with 42,500 gallons of consumption for the month.
Gallons Units Rate Total 0 - 1,000= 1.00x $24.51= $24.51
1,001 - 5,000= 4.00 x $ 0.75= $ 3.00
5,001 - 20,000= 15.00 x $ 3.71= $55.65
20,001 - 40,000= 20.00 x $ 7.41= $148.20
Over 40,000= 2.50x $ 8.98= $22.45
Total Gallons: 42,500 Water Portion of Bill: $253.81

(Information provided by the Customer & Utility Services Website of The City of Plano)

​(Article by Caryn Walz LI8895|BPAT 8606 |Certified Landscape Auditor)

There are several species of wild rabbits—most are called cottontail rabbits—who, between them, live across most of North America. Cottontails like to live at the edges of open areas. In fact, they are rarely found in dense forests or open grassland.

This love of edges means they love our suburbs. Yards, parks, playgrounds, and office parks, often with small natural buffers in between, have lots of edges between small areas of different habitats that rabbits love.We have had an enormous amount of folks talking about rabbits eating and crapping in lawns and landscapes causing "brown or dead spots" all over the yard.  Wild rabbit’s start to breed around four months of age and the can have over 50 offspring in a year.  The good news is that wild rabbits are prey animals with a life expectancy of about seven months. 

​Urine Burns Grass - Like dog urine, rabbit urine is acidic and will kill grass in spots wherever it occurs. You might be able to train your dog to use out of the way places for its elimination needs, but you can't train wild rabbits, so when they visit your garden, they urinate as well as eat grass and other plants.

Diagnosing Rabbit Damage - Rabbits are fairly large animals, so it's easy to spot them when they forage on your lawn. If you don't catch them in the act, look for their droppings near the areas of your lawn that they have damaged. Try diluting cayenne pepper with water and spraying it around the edges of your lawn areas once a week. You might need to reseed the damaged areas, but this remedy might help to deter rabbits from returning to the area.

Repellent Products and Plants Can Help - Commercial products are available at nurseries and online that claim to repel rabbits and other animals. Some mimic the scent of rabbit predators. Some people believe that sprinkling coyote urine around the periphery of your yard will repel rabbits. Rabbits find certain plants unappealing and might not venture into a lawn area that contains them around its border. Such plants include baby's breath, lavender, lily of the valley, foxglove, coral bells, ornamental sages, forget-me-not, yarrow, Oriental poppy, ornamental onions, day lilies and tulips.

We recommend a trip to your local Dollar Tree Store for a few pinwheels and rubber snakes for the flower beds. These and a regular watering regiment is the cheapest and safest method we recommend!

​(Article by Caryn Walz LI8895|BPAT 8606 |Certified Landscape Auditor)

​If all the soil beneath a foundation swells uniformly, there usually is no problem. Issues occur, however, when only part of the home settles. Then, the differential movement causes cracks or other damages.
Problems resulting from foundation settlement:

• Damage to the structure
• • Loss of real estate value
  • Tripping hazards
  • Unsightly cracks
  • Plumbing leaks 
  Whatever the cause, settlement can destroy the value of your home and even render it unsafe. If you see signs of foundation failure, don't delay in getting the problem solved. The longer you wait, the more your foundation will sink
• The soil conditions in Texas respond to rain and drought like a sponge. This expansion and contraction with changes in moisture put stress on your foundation.  
• Clay isn’t the only type of soil that negatively impacts foundations. The second biggest enemy to concrete house foundations is sand. While sand does not expand and contract like clay soils, it can be washed away, creating gaps beneath a foundation.
  Loam and rock are the best soils for providing foundation support. They compact well and don’t move or swell with moisture changes causing further costly damage.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  Are you wondering if you have foundation issues? All foundations will settle with time, but problems arise when this settlement is uneven or extreme.
• Here are the common signs of foundation problems:
  Exterior Warning Signs
  • Wall rotation
  • Separation around the garage door, windows and/or walls
  • Cracked bricks
  • Broken and/or cracked foundation
  • Displaced moldings
  Interior Warning Signs
• • Misaligned doors and windows
  • Cracked sheetrock
  • Cracks in floor
  • Uneven floors
  Bulging floors and cracked walls, and doors that won't close are all signs of foundation distress.  60% of all homes built on expansive soils suffer from foundation distress. The problems occur when only part of the foundation heaves or settles, causing cracks and other damage.
  This differential movement is largely caused by differences in soil moisture. Loss or gain of soil moisture can cause serious shrinkage or swelling.
  If the frame of a house does not begin to distort until after three or more years of satisfactory performance, it is doubtful that the distortion is caused by full-depth foundation settlement, which is always evidenced by matching cracks. Cracks occur at each side of a portion of the foundation wall that is undergoing downward movement caused by soil bearing failure.
  Settlement cracks are nearly always vertical, and they should not be confused with cracks that occur when a wall is subjected to lateral movement from soil pressure.
  FOUNDATION CRACKS - Hairline cracks are a common result of normal foundation settlement. However, you should be concerned if large cracks appear suddenly. If a crack is wider than an eighth of an inch you could have a possible foundation issue.
  “Horizontal or jagged 45-degree cracks are the most serious and usually indicate you will need professional help.”
  If unsure, monitor the cracks in your foundation, if they continue to expand, call a foundation repair company out to inspect the cracking.                                                                                                                                                                                     

The two most common methods of this type of repair are slabjacking and hydraulic jacking (also known as piering).
In a Slabjacking operation, grout is pumped beneath a slab or beam to produce a lifting force that restores the member to its original elevation.
In piering, steel posts are driven through the unstable soil and hydraulic jacks are used to raise or stabilize concrete slabs affected by changes in the underlying soil. The repair method used depends on the type of distress being treated.
Choosing the correct method for concrete foundation repair. Before deciding on a repair method, you must determine what is causing the distress. Examine moldings and trim boards, mortar joints in brick veneer, and windows in low areas for clues. Also, take note of recent weather. Unusually dry or wet weather can cause problems in the underlying soil.
The most commonly used method of correcting smaller slabs of sunken concrete, such as residential slabs, driveways, sidewalks, swimming pool decks, etc. is slabjacking.
Slabjacking is done by pumping a cement grout through small, strategically-located holes in the concrete slab. Once in place, the grout solidifies into a dense concrete mass and provides a competent bearing for the concrete slab.
If a soil-cement-lime grout is used, the lime content of the slurry will impart the benefits of lime stabilization to the base or sub-base. This combined treatment not only restores the slab to proper grade but also stabilizes the sub-soil to prevent recurrence of the problem.                                                                                                                                                                   
HOW TO HIRE A FOUNDATION REPAIR CONTRACTOR                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Foundation work is definitely not a do-it-yourself project, so it makes good sense to get at least three licensed contractors to give you a detailed proposal along with an assessment of your issues. The average inspection takes about two hours. 

• Educate yourself on foundation repair methods and ask a lot of questions. Don't make your final decision based on advertising and cheap prices. If it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
• Don't do business with a contractor that does not have their foundation repair methods evaluated by ICC-ES (International Code Council Evaluation Services). This nonprofit organization ensures that building products meet code compliance.
• In most areas of the country, a reputable contractor will have a clause for the depth of the hydraulic piling (typically 20 to 30 feet). Beyond that depth, there is usually an additional charge, ranging from $20 to $30 per foot. If a contractor has no depth clause, be cautious. It's unlikely that the contractor would continue to operate at a loss, and would instead just stop at the depth that would guarantee a profit.
• Some foundation repair projects require removal of landscaping in the areas of the work, and the contractor typically won't guarantee that a bush or shrub will survive after removal and replacement.
• Warranties or guarantees for foundation repair work are very important, so pay close attention to their terms. Remember that a warranty is only as good as the company that backs it. Look for a national company that can offer a warranty trust. This means that if the company goes out of business, there is a plan in place to provide follow-up service, if needed.
• Most likely your Irrigation System will be affected either by broken pipes, heads, and wires. Who is responsible for the repairs? (Get it in writing) What licensed company will be doing the repairs? Is the foundation company selling Irrigation services without a license? (Holding your foundation warranty hostage if you don't let them upsell you with a Foundation Drip System) ?    Texas Law:  Only  Landscape Irrigators (LI) can sell, design, consult, install, maintain, alter, repair irrigation systems.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               Once you have an idea of how you are going to deal with your foundation let us help you with applying even moisture around your house. Not just at the dripline where most companies lay a ring of water around your house. The entire system needs to be evaluated for "head-to-head" coverage. Starting at the foundation and going 6' to 8' away, making sure you have uniform distribution all the way around your house. Over or under watering one side of the house can contribute to continued foundation problems in the future. Just like large shrubs and trees being too close to the house. Using a Weather Based WiFi controller to get alerts when things stop working or help you easily manage your watering schedules, is the best insurance for long term monitoring.  The new Rachio Gen 3 is a perfect all  in one Hydro Solution for Homeowners, especially if you travel.                                                                                             We are Rachio Certified Pro Installers. - Need help call us - 214.837.1553

​(Article by Caryn Walz LI8895|BPAT 8606 |Certified Landscape Auditor)

​Maintenance Tips for DIY Homeowners:

Watering – During prime growing months (April-September), sod will require approximately 1 inch of water per week. This will vary depending on climate conditions. During winter months, this amount should be adequate for approximately a 2-3 week period. Don't forget to make sure that the sod is moist before a freeze during the winter months to help protect the root system.  Use cycle Soak method for watering deep. (i.e. 1am for 8-10 min. and again 4am 8 to 10min. for SPRAYS and  15 to 20 min. for ROTORS)

Mowing – Generally sod should be mowed every 7-10 days depending on sod type and time of season. Best results are noticed if you mow a little shorter in the spring (i.e. 1.5 inch height), then a little taller in the summer and fall (i.e. 2 inch height). This will help insulate the sod during the summer and fall, also promoting new growth in the spring and early summer.

Fertilization – A balanced fertilizer with a slow release form of nitrogen such as 13-13-13 stems better overall results at establishment, and then use a 3-1-2 (i.e. 21-7-14) @ 5 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. As a general rule, fertilization takes place two times a year (spring and early fall) on St. Augustine and Zoysia. On Bermuda use a 3-1-2 @ 5 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. in the spring and fall with an additional Nitrogen application of 21-0-0 @ 2 lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. in early June.

These are general recommendations for our area which can be changed due to weather conditions, quality desired and landscape use. In using any products read and follow all label directions.
 
 
Please use gloves and eye protection when handling any fertilizer products. Heads Up Sprinkler Co., LLC is not affiliated in anyway to Home Depot this list was provided as a guide to help homeowners.
 
Home Depot sells these products:

​This LESCO fertilizer weed control product controls over 100 broadleaf weeds including dandelions, buckthorn and more. It has an environmentally friendly analysis. Since it contains zero phosphorous.

• Apply in spring and fall when broadleaf weeds are actively growing
• High in potassium for plant durability
• Preferred product of professional landscapers
• Professional product for professional results
• Excellent weed control product
• Must be applied with a rotary spreader
• Should be one of the components of a lawn maintenance plan

​Premium iron formula any time of year to any type of grass. To deliver results that truly exceed your expectations, we have enhanced this product with beneficial microbes and advanced soil technology.

• A deep green lawn without excessive growth
• Helps grass use nutrients found naturally in the soil
• Contains more iron for a deeper green
• For use on lawns, flowers, shrubs, vegetables and trees